2 October 1972
In Hajjah people still talk of the Imams, and some still have their watches set to "Islamic" time - the day starts for Muslims at sunset (ie about 6pm) when they set their watches at 12, so they are six hours different from what you would expect. However, the Republic abolished Muslim time and imposed infidel time.
Hajjah is actually very pleasant - fairly well spaced out, with a hospital, a preparatory school and two new schools (secondary level) under construction, one for the boys and the other, placed just by the main mosque in the Hawrah area, for the girls. But although the town seems to be quite well organised - almost developed - there is no piped water, and no sewage system, but the long-drop toilets in the houses are probably a lot more hygeinic than flush toilets that don't work (as in the hotel in Hodeidah). I hope that self-sterilising filter candles are OK - I lost all my water purifying tablets in my luggage. The German trained doctor has told me I can get some water tablets from the hospital tomorrow, in case the filter doesn't sterilise enough.
Men in Yemen mostly wear a footah (a sort of skirt) or a thowb which is full length, plus a jambiyah - a ceremonial curved dagger and, except in Sanaa and Hodeidah, a rifle or sub-machine gun, most of which are Russian. The Governor also carries a pistol. On their heads they wear a sort of fez, but made of straw or something like that, around which is wrapped cloth to make a nice headcovering.
In Hajjah people still talk of the Imams, and some still have their watches set to "Islamic" time - the day starts for Muslims at sunset (ie about 6pm) when they set their watches at 12, so they are six hours different from what you would expect. However, the Republic abolished Muslim time and imposed infidel time.
Hajjah is actually very pleasant - fairly well spaced out, with a hospital, a preparatory school and two new schools (secondary level) under construction, one for the boys and the other, placed just by the main mosque in the Hawrah area, for the girls. But although the town seems to be quite well organised - almost developed - there is no piped water, and no sewage system, but the long-drop toilets in the houses are probably a lot more hygeinic than flush toilets that don't work (as in the hotel in Hodeidah). I hope that self-sterilising filter candles are OK - I lost all my water purifying tablets in my luggage. The German trained doctor has told me I can get some water tablets from the hospital tomorrow, in case the filter doesn't sterilise enough.
Men in Yemen mostly wear a footah (a sort of skirt) or a thowb which is full length, plus a jambiyah - a ceremonial curved dagger and, except in Sanaa and Hodeidah, a rifle or sub-machine gun, most of which are Russian. The Governor also carries a pistol. On their heads they wear a sort of fez, but made of straw or something like that, around which is wrapped cloth to make a nice headcovering.
Hajjah is hotter than Sanaa when the sun is out, but when the sun goes in we are actually in the cloud, so it is rather cold and damp. This afternoon has been cold and cloudy, and it is thundery weather now - maybe it will rain.
My food and tea comes from a kitchen which is outside, on the ground floor, so everything is only half warm when it reaches me five floors up. However, I have invested in a primus stove (called a "baramoos" here) to make tea for myself. I'm looking forward to that.
Ramadan begins next Monday (a week today) - no food to be consumed between about 6am and 7.30 pm. Then, about 6 or 7 November, is the 'Id al-Fitr, which means break-fast feast, and lasts for 5 days (officially - unofficially, most of two weeks).
The start of the school term has been delayed for a week so that the new teachers can see round Hajjah and get settled in - nearly all of the Yemeni ones are here now. There are some others expected from Egypt or Syria in about two weeks.
I understand that the Governor may be delayed for some time because of the war with south Yemen - he is a brigadier or something in the army. If the country gets plunged into chaos I shall probably have to leave, but with all the weaponry available and the fact that there are Russians and Chinese on both sides of the border, I doubt if the fighting can spread significantly.
I understand that the Governor may be delayed for some time because of the war with south Yemen - he is a brigadier or something in the army. If the country gets plunged into chaos I shall probably have to leave, but with all the weaponry available and the fact that there are Russians and Chinese on both sides of the border, I doubt if the fighting can spread significantly.
