Sanaa - still no luggage. Finding my way around.

Sanaa, Thursday 14 September 1972

On Saturday I went round to Yemen Airways to see if there was any news of my luggage.  There wasn't, but I arranged that when it turns up in Hodeidah Yemen Airways will bring it up to Sanaa.  It will cost a couple of pounds probably. 

I tried to buy some sheets of stamps for my father (avid stamp collector) at the post office, but they don't like selling them by the sheet, as they can sell sheets of stamps on the international market at a lot over face value - the highest denomination is 18 buqshas, which is just over 2 new pence, so a sheet wouldn't cost too much if they could be persuaded to sell it.

I went for a walk in the suq in the old town and some friendly Yemenis bought me a soft drink - they were really kind.  In the afternoon I thought that Mr Baldry was going to take me to see the museum, but it turned out later that the visit had been postponed till Monday.  Instead I spent the afternoon at a qat party given by the Boyds' servant, who was celebrating his birthday.

On Monday the term started at the International School, and I left the Boyds in a state of (semi-)organised chaos at 8.45 to go to the orientation course that was being run for the VSO volunteers.  In the afternoon there was a colloquial Arabic lesson given by a dynamic French priest cum engineer who apparently runs the power station.  He is called Pere Etienne Renaud.  Afterwards we were taken on a tour of the ethnographical section of the National Museum which has been set up (ie the ethnographical bit) by a French lady doctor called Madame Fayenne.

On Tuesday I went to the Yamaha dealership to enquire about buying a motorcycle to get around on.  Theoretically, as a foreigner,  I should be able to get one tax-free which would be about 1800 riyals instead of 2400, but apparently the governor of Hodeidah isn't quite under Sanaa's control and won't let any motorbikes out of Hodeidah without charging tax, even if the Sanaa authorities have signed a permit for it to be imported tax-free.

In the evening the VSO volunteers and I were invited round to drinks with the Ambassador.  He was very nice, and promised to make sure that I get looked after well in Hajjah.  I'd thought of seeing if there were any VSO vacancies in Sanaa, but I've given up on that idea, and discovered that people who know Hajjah are very envious that I am going to be there.  In the evening I went round to see Mr Jarvis, but he had just heard that theere was an English language film being shown that evening at the UN house (Viva Zapata, as it turned out)  and I went along to that.

Still no news about my luggage - I suppose it must still be in Cairo airport somewhere.  Clothes are rather difficult to get hold of here - especially as I am quite tall compared to Yemenis. 

News is filtering through here about the attack in Munich.  Most of the Yemenis population haven't heard about it, it seems - others think that it might make a profound impact on the Palestinian issue, but that West Germany was not the place to do it.

First days in Sanaa

Thursday 7 September 1972

When I met Mr Bird, who is one of the British Council team here, he took me around to meet a few people, but one of them wasn't in.  He is called John Baldry and he lives in a house in the old city.  Prof Serjeant and others think he is rather funny because he chooses to live in the suq, but Mr Bird brought him round to see me at Mr Jarvis's house yesterday and I have formed a completely different impression.  He has been teaching all over the Middle East for over 10 years now, and has been in Yemen for 10 months.  He is one of the two British Council people here who actually travels around the country and meets people.  Mr Jarvis does too, but to a lesser extent.  He (Baldry) has visited Hajjah quite recently and will be able to give me a lot of solid information before I go.  Apparently the water in Hajjah has bilharzia in it.

This is from the roof of the house I am staying in

Yesterday afternoon he took me to a qat chewing party - there were about 10 people there, including the director of Sanaa university and one or two high-up members of the government, who all promised to help me in every possible way.  Two of them were called Mohammed al-Shami which was confusing. We sat and chewed qat for about four hours (you have to chew it for at least that long to get any effect) until about 7 pm and then, because you get depressed when you start "coming down" they produced three bottles of smuggled Scotch whisky, then had something to eat.  All the time we had a most interesting discussion with one of the government ministers, about Yemen and its political and economic situation, and plans for its development.

The back of the British Embassy

Qat is a leaf which you chew and keep in the side of your mouth and just chew and chew more.  It is simultaneously stimulating and relaxing (so they say-I also found it slightly nauseating after 4 hours - and it turns your teeth green).  They told me about 10 pm that it also keeps you awake - quite right, as it turned out.  So today I woke with one of the best hangovers I have had in a long time. 

Abdul Mughni Street in Sanaa

Today I went to the Embassy to see if there was any post, but there wasn't, then John Baldry came and took me along to see some other minister (not sure which) but unfortunately he did not turn up as he was busy.  Afterwards we went to the passport office for me to register, but it was shut and doesn't open until Saturday.  While I was at the Embassy reading a seriously out of date Observer, Mr Bird (Norman Bird) came by and told me that Mr Jarvis (he is Richard) has sent a note saying that I was to stay with an American couple who teach at the new international school here.  They are called Mark and Jill Boyd, and after lunch I went round to their house with my luggage (such as it is- no news about the suitcases yet).  They have some rooms in the building that is being used for the International School which has been set up by an American called Jim Gilson.  It is very close to the British Embassy, and in the afternoon I walked around the centre of Sanaa.

Tomorrow I understand that the proper VSO volunteers are arriving, so I'm hoping that my luggage arrives with them.